«Manifold Folds»

Pleats lend textiles a special dynamic. This craft, which uses heat to permanently fix folds in place, has a long tradition. The fabric is placed in pre-folded cardboard templates and the pleats fixed with steam. They hold their shape particularly well in synthetic fibers such as polyester, in contrast to natural fibers such as silk, cotton, or wool, where the creases disappear again after washing. The museum’s collection includes early pleating experiments by Atelier Zanolli and pleated fabrics by textile designer Jack Lenor Larsen. These unusual surfaces can also be found in many couture fabrics, for example in creations by Japanese designer Issey Miyake and in collections by designer Julia Heuer.